Learn how to use a jigsaw, how it works, and some jigsaw tips and tricks!
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About this video: I’ve had a rocky relationship with the old jigsaw from the 1980s-1990s that my dad gave me about 15 years ago. It vibrates horribly and uses u-shank blades. I didn’t realize how bad it was, and how useful a jigsaw could be, until I bought a more modern jigsaw.
Content
0.06 -> the jigsaw - today we're going to talk
about what it does and how to use it
9.86 -> the jigsaw and I have a very rocky past but
that's mainly due to this guy right here
14.48 -> my dad gave me this probably 15 years
ago and I think he probably had it 15
19.08 -> years before that the biggest problem is
that it vibrates really bad and it takes
23.91 -> you shank blades which we'll talk about
a little later about a year ago I was
27.09 -> working on a project and I needed a
jigsaw so I bought this one and once I
31.679 -> used this for the first time I knew it
was gonna have a permanent place in my
34.92 -> shop let's go over the parts of the
jigsaw all jigsaw is gonna be a little
42.899 -> bit different but they all have the same
basic parts this jigsaw has an overhand
47.43 -> handle with the power switch on the
bottom of the handle and it's got a lock
51.09 -> so you can lock the power switch on and
then the speed control also is on the
55.53 -> power switch it has orbital selections
which let you cut a little more
59.73 -> aggressively so zero is the blade goes
straight up and down and as you move
63.87 -> this selector up it will do more
aggressive oval type movements so as it
68.939 -> comes up and down it pushes it forward
just a little bit depending on what you
72.81 -> select here the Sig saw has a quick
release clamp for the blades and we'll
76.83 -> talk about this a little later but this
takes T shank blades and that's really
81.99 -> what you want to look for when you buy a
jigsaw to make it that easy to load and
86.909 -> unload your blade this bottom plate is
called the shoe and on this jigsaw you
90.96 -> can turn this around and use the end
that's considered anti splinters so this
95.82 -> part here supports the wood fibers as
you cut and it's supposed to cut down on
100.38 -> chipping and splintering but you can
only use it with certain type of blades
108.38 -> the jigsaw is probably best known for
cutting curves but it's got several
112.74 -> other uses one is the crosscut and if
you've got a speed square or some other
116.52 -> kind of straight edge they'll give you a
really nice straight cut the shoe on
120.87 -> most jig saws will actually tilt to
allow you to cut bevels it can also make
126.66 -> a pocket cut otherwise known as a plunge
cut by elting it up in the front of its
131.16 -> shoe getting the blade up to speed and
then slowly lowering it down until the
135.96 -> blade is all the way through the wood
140.45 -> you would do this if you needed to cut
out a hole in wood which is also a very
144.81 -> handy use for the jig saw aside from the
pocket cut you can drill holes big
149.88 -> enough for the blade and get started
that way jigsaw blades can be extremely
159.42 -> confusing so let's start with the
different shanks that you'll find
162.75 -> there's primarily two kinds this is a
tee shank it fits up into a quick
167.07 -> release clamp and most jigsaw is made
today are made to fit a tee shank and
171.33 -> these are much more convenient to unload
and load and much more secure than the
175.95 -> use shank you shank have au at the top
they fit into the holder and they're
180.75 -> tightened down with a screw so they're
not as secure there's a little bit more
184.02 -> time to load and unload them there's a
few ways that we describe jigsaw blades
188.31 -> and one of those is TPI or teeth per
inch so if I measure an inch on this
194.13 -> blade and count one two three four five
six that's sixty p.i or six teeth per
200.61 -> inch if you'll notice on this blade it
is pretty aggressive at sixty P I here
205.02 -> at the end but if you look up here more
towards the top of the blade it looks
208.86 -> like there's a few more teeth per inch
and it's actually nine TPI and the
213.3 -> reason for that is because this blade
and all blades cut the direction of the
218.25 -> teeth so you notice these teeth are
slanted upward so as this blade moves up
222.42 -> and down in the jigsaw when it comes
down it's all it's doing is rubbing on
227.52 -> the back of the teeth and that's not the
cutting side so it cuts when it comes
232.29 -> back up and it's cutting up from the
bottom to the top and so as this comes
237.72 -> up these top teeth are going to score
the wood before the more aggressive part
243.37 -> and that way there will be less tear out
once these more aggressive teeth get
248.23 -> there the initial part of that wood is
already scored and separated the teeth
252.88 -> on a jigsaw blade can also be set to
alternate so if you see this tooth here
257.049 -> goes off to the left then right then
left right and they alternate all the
261.01 -> way up that's a faster cut but it's also
rougher with more tear out until you get
265.6 -> to the top here and these teeth are set
straight so straight teeth and more of
271.12 -> them score the would have less tear out
it's a slower cut but it's a lot cleaner
276.19 -> but you can also buy a reverse blade
where the teeth are facing down and all
281.11 -> that means is like we talked about
before instead of this blade cutting on
284.71 -> the upstroke this blades gonna cut on
the downstroke the way you use the
288.88 -> jigsaw is a little bit different between
this blade and this blade if you think
292.81 -> about it as you're cutting on the
upstroke with this blade the wood is
296.77 -> going to resist that cut and so it's
going to push as this moves up to cut
300.94 -> the wood is going to try to resist and
push it back down so as it pushes it
305.53 -> back down it brings the shoe and the
entire jigsaw back down with it which
310.54 -> results in keeping it on the piece that
you're cutting with a reverse blade
315.28 -> you're cutting on the down stroke so the
wood is resisting the teeth as you push
321.07 -> down and wants to push it back up and so
the tendency is for the entire jigsaw
326.2 -> and the shoe to lift up off of the piece
you're cutting so you have to be aware
330.91 -> of that and keep the jigsaw pressed
firmly against the workpiece at all
334.66 -> times there's all kinds of jigsaw blades
out there and they're usually pretty
338.32 -> clearly labeled what they're used for
you can get them for metal you can get
341.89 -> them for PVC plastic this is a scrolling
blade which is really good for curves
346.45 -> you'll notice how narrow it is and it's
got a pretty high TPI a general wood
351.28 -> cutting blade this is a very very coarse
blade which is just for cross-cutting
356.26 -> two-by-fours out on a construction site
and something that you don't care what
359.86 -> it looks like and you don't care if it
has a lot of tear out
366.06 -> all this information means nothing to
you if you can't apply it to your own
370.75 -> woodworking so let's do a couple of
practical examples I'm going to put the
375.669 -> really rough jigsaw blade in here and
make a cut
387.96 -> you see really that wasn't a bad cut
it's very clean on the bottom where the
392.639 -> blade was entering into the cut and even
at the top with a coarse blade like this
397.11 -> it still was not bad tear out now I've
got that combination blade we looked at
402.27 -> there was a cleaner cut at the top and
more aggressive at the bottom so
413.699 -> immediately you can you can see that
that was a much rougher cut still clean
418.68 -> on the bottom but that it went a lot
faster than that other blade it's now
423.84 -> I've loaded up the blade that's kind of
a general-purpose blade but it's more
427.26 -> fine-toothed than the last one it should
be a cleaner cut
433.729 -> so really about the same as the last one
all of these are really clean on the
438.63 -> bottom and you can see how rough they
can be on the top so now I've loaded up
444.21 -> the reverse blade and you'll see how the
top will be cleaner than the bottom
458.65 -> now let's try these blades with some
walnut which is a much harder wood
470.289 -> you see the hardwood cuts a lot better
than the light wood and this 2x4 the
476 -> fibers in this they have a lot of give
before the blade actually cuts them and
480.44 -> that results in a lot of this tear out
in hardwood the fibers don't have near
484.37 -> the give and as long as the blade is
sharp enough it just cuts cleanly right
488.33 -> through them
I've loaded up just the standard blade
491.09 -> and I'm going to cut this curve now
loaded up this scrolling blade and we'll
504.65 -> see how much better it does it was a
slower cut much cleaner and I had a lot
514.339 -> more control if you notice along this
edge it's much closer to 90 degrees
519.14 -> straight up and down and then 90 with
this edge as opposed to the last blade
524.029 -> where I had quite a bit of deflection
here you can see that's kind of bevel
527.839 -> it's kind of angled that way and that
happens because the blade is not
531.98 -> supportive down here so if you try to
feed it through too fast or you're using
536.27 -> the wrong blade for the workpiece and
you could get deflection like that and
539.72 -> it would cause it to cut a bevel I've
got the aggressive blade loaded back up
543.47 -> I'm gonna make a cut with just straight
up and down no orbital action and then
547.88 -> we're gonna go all the way up to three
and see how much that helps
567.37 -> much faster of a cut much more
aggressive but it looks terrible now on
572.42 -> the bottom interestingly it's still a
nice clean cut but the tear out on the
576.44 -> sides and on the bottom is horrible most
manufacturers will tell you to get the
587.66 -> blade up to full speed before pushing it
in to cut the wood the problem with that
591.68 -> is the jigsaw really wants to wander
it's hard to accurately hit your line
596.57 -> doing this way because most saws have an
analogue switch and you can just barely
600.83 -> press it down and the blade will slowly
move up and down what I like to do if
604.97 -> I'm trying to make a really accurate cut
is to start up next to the wood and
609.38 -> slowly bring the blade up and down to
start a curve and then back it off a
613.97 -> little bit get the blade up to full
speed and then make the cut if I need a
618.8 -> really clean cut on the top and bottom
of a workpiece and I'm using a blade
622.94 -> where the teeth are facing up I know
that the bottoms gonna be clean anyway
626.089 -> I'll clamp a sacrificial board to the
top that gives the fibres enough support
630.68 -> that it prevents tear out if you know
anymore jigsaw tips and tricks put them
635.39 -> down in the comments if you're new to
woodworking or you want to get started
638.6 -> look down in the description I've got a
free download you might find helpful if
642.649 -> you'd like to see more woodworking
videos like these consider subscribing
645.85 -> thanks for watching and we'll see you
next time